Subject: Hi again!
Hello! The weather is kinda rainy/snowy/yucky today, so it 's a good time for me to sit down at the computer again!
I was going to tell you more about Italy, but first I HAVE to tell you about yesterday!!
Yesterday I decided to go to Luzern, just to see it. It's less than an hour away, and I had heard so much about how beautiful it is there, so it seemed like the perfect day trip!
The train ride there is nice- it goes right along the Zürichsee for much of the ride, heading south towards all those mountains that I keep telling you about. But pretty much what I see all the time- the lake valley is filled with houses and buildings and stuff, like an overflow from the city. Then a tunnel. Then suddenly we're on the other side of the hills that form a rim around the lake. It seems so quiet and peaceful (partially simply bec. we just came out of the tunnel, where it is always loud and rumbly just from the train going through) The sun was shining pale yellow through the trees on the ridge now to the left, and we crossed a low bridge over a wide stream, with snow covered rocks and chunks of ice in the middle of it- I could have been up in the Adirondacks! Then another tunnel, big open fields w/ the mtns in the distance, another tunnel,...... We stopped in Zug, which I hadn't seen since our hiking adventure in October- OH! I'm going to have to tell you about THAT at some point too!- then skirted around the Zugersee, which was incredibly calm and tranquil.
When we arrived in Luzern, I noticed a bunch of the people on the platform were wearing loud costumes, had colored hair, etc. Then I realized: WHOA! I had picked the perfect day to go to Luzern- it's Fasnacht!!!!!
That's Carneval. And I guess Luzern and Basel are the 2 Swiss cities that are REALLY known for their Fasnacht celebrations, and I just randomly decided to show up for the one in Luzern!!!
So, never having been to a Fasnacht celebration, I had no idea what it was all about. It seemed like the entire city, and then some, was outside, wearing big bright costumes- some were dressed up AS something, but most were just dressed up. It's kind of like Halloween, but much cheerier. Not all of the blood and gore that is aimed for in Halloween costumes. A lot of metallic colored fabric, a lot of layers and ruffles. Picture the Chiquita banana lady- you know how costumes like that (is that Caribbean?) have ruffles stepped up the entire dress, the entire arms, each of a different color? That's how a lot of the Fasnacht costumes were. Some had layers like that, but of points of fabric, so in they end they kind of looked like birds. A lot of people had their faces painted. And the costumes weren't quite so individualistic as Halloween costumes in the US- I noticed that there were often groups of 4 or 5 people wearing matching or complementary costumes- whole families, groups of friends, it made those colors stand out all that much more, because there was that much more of it! I was feeling kind of out of place in my charcoal grey jacket and black gloves and scarf. But I had to laugh- where else can you go where the clueless tourists are LESS conspicuous than the locals?? :)
I just followed the crowds of people. Just outside the train station I crossed a bridge over the river as it empties out into (or does it empty out OF?) the Vierwaldstättersee to my right. It really was a magnificent view- on the opposite shore the land climbs up to spectacular snow covered mountains, and the water was so incredibly calm and reflective.
There were alternating Swiss and Luzern flags leaning over the water from the bridge, and on the other side of the bridge- in front of me and to the right- the street continued with big old formal buildings- hotels and banks, I think- and a long row of the same trimmed-down-to-the-big-scarred-knuckles-trees that are everywhere in Zürich. (I still don't see the beauty in such drastic pruning, but then again, that's just me) If it wasn't for all the excitement on the street, this would have captured my interest for much longer. So that will have to wait until my NEXT trip to Luzern! :)
People were all hovering around lining the street, kids were throwing snowballs at the few cars and buses that were passing by, and some were throwing confetti from their big bags of it. There was loud (live) music playing in a few different places, but other than that, not much was going on. They were definitely waiting for something! So I waited with them, and just watched all the really cool costumes.
Then people on my side started moving in onto the street, leaving only one lane between the two sides of the crowd.
Then an all brass pep band came down the street, (they weren't really marching, just walking together) and started playing.
They all had these crazy people sitting on their heads, all with a big zigzag tear going straight up through their ribcages, and with really gruesome expressions on their faces. (I would too, if I was being torn in two!!) The actual musicians had really cool airbrushed face paint. They played a few songs, pep-band-style of recent songs on the radio, got the crowd going, then continued on.
Then a whole parade followed, with groups and floats of everything imaginable- Smurfs, old hags, aliens, old Alpine hunters wearing Tyrolean hats, toothbrushes, really (intentionally) out of tune bands complete with drums, glockenspiels, piccolos, ....kazoos would have fit nicely here..... just being as loud as possible, soccer fans, political "candidates" (with campaign signs- "ich bin für lechts und rinks" -"I am for light and reft", "vote for me, mr. so-and-so pastrami", etc) etc.
The whole parade lasted a few hours, and wound through the entire old city center. As it ended, the crowd dispersed, but still was everywhere in the town!
I walked around looking for something warm to eat and drink at the little snack booths (I was frozen!) and just watching everyone.
At one point I crossed another of the little bridges and almost got crushed completely in the huge crowd that was trying to go in both directions, but mostly in the direction I was going. At the other end of the bridge was a huge crowd, surrounding the pep band that was standing on the big wide steps between two buildings leading up to the next little square. Everyone was dancing, young and old, to their music, and just having a great time! The band would stay there for about a half an hour or so, then would leave as the next would appear, complete with cadence and everything! I stayed there for two or three bands, dancing along with everyone else. Then I continued wandering around the city. All of Luzern was a mass migration of bands, people, music, just one big huge celebration, where you never knew where the next big cluster of dancing people was going to suddenly emerge. I thought a bit about the They Might Be Giants concert where Matt lifted me up so I could see out over the crowd to watch how in the midst of all that chaos circles of people dancing together would emerge, then just as suddenly disappear into the general crowd again. That's how this was, but for the entire town!!
I stayed until about 9 or so, when the cold was more of a factor than the festivities for me. There was a family with a few little kids sitting in the next seats down from me. The little brother, probably about 1 or 2 years old kept coming over and sitting next to me and playing with the folding table. He was so cute! I felt bad I couldn't say anything, bec. I don't think little kids can understand Hochdeutsch, and I can't say much in Schwyzerdüütsch yet.
But anyway, that was my day. If you ever get a chance to go to a Fasnacht celebration in Luzern, do it!!!! It was so cool, like a mixture of Halloween, Macy's Parade, New Year's, and Beaux Arts, all rolled into one! And if you know about it ahead of time, wear a costume, or at least paint your face or something!!! :)
Talk to you later!
Lots of love,
Cor :)
No comments:
Post a Comment